Two of my NYFW favorites so far: Gary Graham (l) and Rachel Comey (r).
[all photos via Style.com]
With the first day of New York Fashion Week behind us, I'm feeling like the designers have given us a truly mixed bag. Of the participants in the official Mercedes-Benz shows at Lincoln Center, Tadashi Shoji impressed me the most with plenty of '20s drop-waist silhouettes and a sprinkling of flapper fringe. (Didn't I call it?)
Others, however, left me wanting. You may have seen my Tweet about Nicholas K already in which I effectively called his collection a cross between boho cowboy and Oscar the Grouch. And, while I'm sure I'll be shopping for some supremely wearable BCBG come next fall, the collection falls back on current trends - jewel tones and color blocking. I look to Max Azria to show me what's next in fashion, not what's current.
My favorite presentations so far have turned out to be two "unofficial" Fashion Week participants whose collections I admire for two absolutely opposing reasons...
Gary Graham Fall 2012
Gary Graham previewed his Fall 2012 collection in his downtown Manhattan store on Monday, showing a stunning blend of mixed scarf prints, deep hues and a couple of demure party dresses to balance out the tougher sportswear. All in all, the combination somehow brings to mind ousted Russian royalty dressed for the modern world.
Rachel Comey Fall 2012
While Graham's prints are what caught my eye, the simplicity of Rachel Comey's palette drew me to her collection. It was something new for the pattern-happy designer, who presented her Fall looks at Pier 59 Studios Wednesday evening. The light dose of print and streamlined shapes let fine fabrics take center stage, including laser-punched cotton and wool felt, laminated treatments, and leather. The effect is a more polished collection from Comey with just enough quirk to please her fans.
As New York Fashion Week rolls on, I won't be covering the shows each day, but you can look forward to some sort of trend report when it's all over. The wheels are already turning.
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